And the best part, I built it for less than $200! Now, I know what you’re saying, “That was last year! Lumber prices aren’t what they used to be.” I hear ya! Feeling it here, too. But, let’s be real–we can still build this table for a heck of a lot less than we could ever buy it in the store! So today, I’m sharing this simple table build with you. I don’t use that word lightly, this is truly a simple build! So let’s get started…
Before we build this beautiful table, let’s talk about the stain. Wanting a lighter, airier look out on my deck, I recently sanded my entire DIY dining table down to the bare wood.
I then applied a combination of Tinsmith Gray stain and Special Walnut stain to achieve this more modern look….
NOTE: I tell exactly how I perfected this light modern stain finish, in this blog post. Be sure to check it out! If the darker stained bottom with the faux concrete top is more of the look you want, this is an easy look to obtain also. I simply stained the bottom using MinWax Special Walnut stain and painted the top with Rustoleum Charcoal Chalk Paint. This process delivers a beautiful, rich finish for your DIY wood table. As seen in the picture below…
Each finish achieves a different look, but both are equally stunning.
NOTE: I built both of these tables to be used as an outdoor table, however, they look great in any dining room or kitchen too, of course!
How To Build The Pottery Barn Brooks Dining Table Hack
(Instructions are based on a 7ft long x 45″ wide; 30″ tall table) If building a different size, be sure to adjust measurements accordingly).
Skill Level: Great for Beginners
Project Affiliate Links Included
Materials List for Easy DIY Table:
- 2x6x8 common pine boards (9)
- 2x6x8 common pine boards (4)
Apron & Supports:
- 2x4x8 common pine boards (4)
- Kreg Jig Screws 2 1/2″
- Wood Glue
- Wood Screws 2 1/2″ (Optional; as seen In Step Two)
- Finish (I.E. paint/stain/poly) (If building for an outdoor space, be sure to use exterior poly)
Finishing Products Needed for Modern Dining Table:
Darker Stain Option:
- Special Walnut Stain
- Annie Sloan Graphite Chalk Paint OR Rustoleum Chalked Paint
Lighter Stain Option:
- TinSmith Gray Stain (I was unable to find this available on Amazon; I usually get mine at Lowe’s)
- Special Walnut Stain
Amazon Affiliate Links Included
NOTE: If you’ve never used a Kreg Jig, here’s a great tutorial. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend buying one. You will use it all the time in the DIY realm! And it makes builds so much easier!
Step One: (Optional) Rip your boards
This step is completely optional. I like to get rid of the manufactured edge on all of my 2x’s before starting any project. This is very easy, but does require a table saw.
I’ll share the widths I take them to and then explain how I do this…
For the table top, I rip the nine 2×6’s to 5″ wide. (2×6’s are actually 5 1/2″ wide)
For the table legs, I rip the four 2×6’s to 4 1/2″ wide.
For the apron & supports, I rip the 2×4’s to 3″ wide. (2×4’s are actually 3 1/2″ wide)
Now for How I Do This: (Here’s a great post on how I give my boards a finished look) I’ll use the table top boards for my example.
As noted above, I want my 2×6 table top boards to be 5″ wide. They are originally 5 1/2″ wide. I simply set my table saw to 5 1/4″ and rip one side of my 2×6.
Then I set my table saw to 5″, flip my board over and rip that side of my board.
Now I have a 5″ wide board with straight edges on both sides.
Follow these same steps for your other boards, to get rid of that manufactured curved edge and achieve a straight-edge look.
Want to build the matching benches too? Here are the plans!!
Step Two: Build the table legs
Cut twelve 2×6’s to 28 1/2″ long. Glue 3 boards together and clamp to let dry. (To secure it even more, you can attach the boards together, using 2 1/2″ wood screws. The glue should be sufficient, but the screws may add a little more peace of mind). When finished, you will have 4 legs that look like this…
Note: I’ve been asked different times, why I don’t just use 4×4’s for this step. My reasoning is: currently, this is a much cheaper route to go. 4×4’s are a lot more expensive than 2×4’s. Of course, you can substitute 4×4’s for this step, if you prefer.
Step Three: Build the frame (apron and supports)
(Tip: Read “Note” at the bottom of Step Three before starting on Step Three)
Apron: Cut two 2×4’s to 75″ long. (Long part of the apron) Add 2 pocket holes to each end and add them along one side of the long part of the board. Cut two 2×4’s to 36″ long. (Short part of the apron) Add 2 pocket holes to each end and add them along one side of the long part of the board….
Attach the 36″ 2×4 between 2 of the legs using 2 1/2″ pocket screws. Note the direction of the vertical pocket holes….this is very important for when you’re ready to attach the table top…..
Repeat with the other two legs and remaining 36″ 2×4. Then attach long boards (75″) to both ends using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. As shown below (Note: this is an upside down view of the table base)….
NOTE (As shown in the picture above):
- Make sure all of the pocket holes are on the inside of the frame.
- Make sure all of the pocket holes, on the frame, are pointing down. So that when you go to attach your screws, you’re able to get to the holes. Very Important!! (See FREE PDF Building Plans to get further clarification on this).
- Inset each of your apron boards about 3/4″.
Supports: Cut three 2×4’s to fit between the width of the table frame. These are your supports to keep your tabletop from bowing with time and wear and tear. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on each end of your 2×4’s and along the edge. Using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, evenly space these boards and attach to the long apron boards. As shown below….
(Unfortunately, I failed to take a picture of this before adding my stain). It’s best to turn the table frame upright and then add these boards, because you want them flush with the side aprons. The reason for this is: your tabletop pieces of wood will be going on top of this frame and you want your tabletop to sit as flat as possible.
Step Four: Build tabletop
Cut nine 2×6’s to 84″ each. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes down the length of each 2×6 (on one side) and attach together using clamps and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. As shown below….
Note: No need to drill pocket holes in the last board (as you can see in picture above), since it will not be attached to another board.
Step Five: Attach tabletop
Flip tabletop over and position onto frame. Attach using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws from the underside of the frame. This is where your pocket holes, along each edge of your apron and supports, come into play….
Here’s a view of the pocket holes (to attach the table top) from the under side of the table. Remember when I said, this was Very Important!?….
Step Six: Sand and Finish
Sand entire table. I like to start with a 60-grit sandpaper and work my way up to a 220-grit. My order of sanding is: 60, 80, 120, 220. If you sand in this order, with each of these grits, you’re guaranteed to have a furniture smooth table with no swirling marks. It takes a little bit of extra time to go through each of these sandpapers, but it’s so worth it!
Add stain or paint and at least 3 coats of poly (one more for added protection, if placing your table outside). I highly recommend General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane. It’s a little more costly than Varathane, but well worth the extra money. I love the hard finish and extra protection it provides your DIY dining room table….
I receive a lot of questions about this stunning table on Instagram and actually had a friend reach out and ask me to build her a 9 foot outdoor dining table. It’s the perfect modern style table for a big family….
Want to build the bench too? Here are the plans!!
Adding two benches is a great addition to this easy project. I’ve included the step-by-step instructions to these picnic table style benches here….
Our new table is the perfect addition to our deck. I love how solid it is. This sturdy table isn’t going anywhere…
And these metal chairs were a steal! We all know chairs are expensive, but not these!!
Looking for a simple design coffee table and end table for your living room, check out these free plans. And at night!! This outdoor space is so inviting…
And one more time, a look at the new finish on the modern wood table…
Table Build FAQ’s:
What kind of wood do you use for your table builds?
I like to use pine for most all of my furniture builds. While it is a much softer wood, it is also much easier to work with. Of course any of my builds can be substituted with the wood of your choice.
What is the perfect size table to fit the most family members?
Of course, this depends on the size of your family. But here is the rule of thumb I like to go by when it comes to rectangular tables: 54″-66″ can seat 6 adults. 72″-84″ can seat 10 adults (with a wider table top…4 feet is ideal). 96″-108″ can seat 12 adults (once again with a 4 foot wide table top).
What are some other furniture pieces you could build with these table plans?
By simply adjusting the measurements, this table design would be perfect for a sofa table, a simple DIY desk, a custom-made DIY lego table. So many other great ideas for creative builds by simply using this easy to follow building plan.
Pin it for later….
I hope you found these free woodworking plans for the Pottery Barn Dining Table to be very clear and helpful. As always, if you have any questions, comment below and I would love to help you out!
I love helping you turn these DIY posts into something tangible. You never know what you’re capable of until you try!.. You’ve got this!
Until next time, Happy Building, Friend!! Be sure to join my VIP List below and never miss an upcoming post.
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DIY Furniture Posts:
How to Build the Easiest Sawhorse Table
How to Build a Modern Dining Table-Inspired by West Elm