DIY Hardwood Floor Refinishing Without Sanding
Is your hardwood flooring tired and worn out? Are your wooden floors ready for a refresh? While hardwood floors are super durable and tough, they do lose their shine and luster over time. And then there’s the knicks, scratches and abuse they go through in the day to day. So, how do you restore that natural wood beauty and bring them back to life?
What if I told you there’s a way to refinish your hardwood floors WITHOUT sanding? It’s true! And It really works! I have floors that I did this exact technique to 7 years ago and they still look as good as new!

When it comes to refinishing hardwood floors, if you’re like me, you dread the thought of sanding them all down. It’s not only time consuming, but it can also be very expensive. Especially, if you hire someone else to do this oh so messy job.
But as I mentioned, there is a way to achieve a beautiful refinished floor without sanding. So, what’s the secret? Gel stain. By using gel stain, you can avoid the sanding process and still achieve a professional looking finish. It is the easiest and best way to bring new life to your hardwood floors.
Ready to give that old finish on your hardwood floors a new finish look?
Bring new life to your tired floors without the dust and debris. Let’s get started with my easy step by step guide to “DIY Hardwood Floor Refinishing Without Sanding”.
“Gel staining is a great option for those who want to update their hardwood floors without the mess and expense of sanding”.- HGTV
How to DIY Hardwood Floor Refinishing Without Sanding
Materials needed for DIY hardwood floor refinishing without sanding:
- Mineral spirits
- Wood filler
- Putty knife
- 220-grit sanding pad
- Tack cloth
- Applicator pad (I like to use a foam brush and foam roller)
- Floor finish (Gel stain)
- Water-based polyurethane
Step 1: Preparing the floors for hardwood floor refinishing
Before diving into the gel staining process, we need to first prepare the floors. We want to make sure the gel stain adheres properly and that the flooring looks its best when we’re finished. Therefore, our first steps include:
- Removing items off the floors
- Cleaning the floors
- Repairing any damages
- Taping off the area
Removing items off the floors
First and foremost, we need an empty slate to start with. Be sure to remove all furniture, accessories, etc.
Here’s a quick look at the before pic of the hardwood floors I recently did this treatment on. They were definitely in need of a refresh…

Cleaning the floors
While cleaning is never fun, it is a very important step in the process of preparing the floors for the gel stain finish. After thoroughly vacuuming the area, wipe down the floors with a tack cloth. And then again, with a damp mop or damp cloth.
Now that the surface is free of all debris, you’re ready to clean the space using mineral spirits or a chemical abrasion kit. Use these sparingly. Only on tough to clean spots and be sure to spot check in an inconspicuous area first. Follow the instructions given on the product you decide to use.

Repairing any damages
Last but certainly not least, it’s a good idea to fill any deep scratches and/or deep gouges with wood filler. You’ll then want to gently sand these spots down with a 220-grit sandpaper block. I promise this is the only sanding you’ll need to do. :)
Once again, sweep up any debris, and you’re ready for the good stuff!
“Gel staining your hardwood floors is a quick and easy way to give them a fresh new look without the hassle of sanding.” – The Spruce
Taping off the area
It’s Important to tape off any areas you don’t want touched by the gel stain. That includes baseboards…

and any fixed objects you may need to work around…

Step 2: Applying the gel stain for refinishing without sanding
Now that our entire floor is properly prepared, we’re ready to apply the gel stain. Once again, I’ll walk you through the step by step process:
- Choosing the right gel stain color
- How to apply each coat
- Applying the top coat
Choosing the right gel stain color
My go to for all of my gel stain products is General Finishes. I love the quality and beautiful wood grain finish of this product. It’s thick enough to make it durable and easy to apply, but yet thin enough to still allow the grain of the wood to show through. It’s the perfect balance.
General finishes has a wide selection of gel stain colors to choose from. A few of my favorites that I have used in the past are:
A couple others that I would really like to try are American Oak and New Pine.
Of course, choosing the right color comes down to personal preference. But keep in mind, whatever color you choose will appear darker on the floor than it does in the can. For this reason, it’s a good idea to test a small area before going all in on a specific color.
Once you’ve chosen the right color, you’re ready to move onto the next step.
“Refinishing hardwood floors can be a daunting task, but with the right method, it can be done without sanding.” – DIY Network
How to apply each coat
As with any painting or staining job, you’ll need to do all of your cutting out first. Apply gel stain, with foam brush, along all of the baseboards and any fixed objects…

Now you’re ready to knock out the rest of the floor with a foam roller. Be sure to work in small sections, making sure you’re not boxing yourself into a corner. The last thing you want is to be stuck in the middle of the room with no where to go. :(
You’ll be amazed at how quickly the gel stain application goes. So fast and easy. And the best part, you can still see that beautiful wood grain….
Oftentimes, one coat is all you need. But again, this is personal preference. If you want your floors to be darker, add another coat. Or if the finish appears to be a little spotty, add another coat. For this foyer area, I applied two coats.

I wanted my guest bathroom floor to be very dark, so I applied 3 coats in this area…

Gel stain does take a while to dry. Be sure to give it 12-24 hours in between each coat. After 12 hours of your first coat, if it feels tacky at all, give it more time.
“With gel staining, you can refinish your hardwood floors in a fraction of the time it takes to sand and refinish, and still achieve a beautiful, professional-looking finish.” – Bob Vila
Applying the top coat
Now you’re ready to add the protective layer that will keep your floors looking good for a very long time.
After 24 hours, you’re ready to apply the top coat. Although this post is not sponsored by General Finishes, I LOVE their products and can’t recommend them enough! My go to poly when I want a super hard and durable finish, is this one here.

Apply the top coat the same way you did the gel stain. Cut out the edges with a foam brush first. Then roll the rest of the floor with a foam roller. Allow 30 minutes for the whole floor to dry before adding a second coat.
For flooring, I like to apply 3-4 coats of Polyurethane.
Things to consider for DIY hardwood floor refinishing without sanding
Some of the important things to consider are:
- Always use a clean brush
- Apply thin coats
Always use a clean brush
Pro tip: This is especially important when it comes to the poly stage of the process. If your roller or brush has any lint or dirt between stages, be sure to switch out to a clean roller. You’ve worked too hard on this project to have blemishes in your top coat.
Apply thin coats
Gel stain has a much thicker consistency than regular stain. Keep in mind, the thicker you apply it, the longer it will take to dry. But also, the thicker you apply it, the darker it will be. To stay on the safe side, you may want to start out with a thin layer. You can always do more applications, if you’re wanting it darker.
Unlike regular stain, you don’t have to wipe off excess stain. Unless you want to, once again to make it lighter. Usually when I’m applying gel stain, I choose not to wipe off the excess, but instead I let it dry.
If you do choose to wipe off the excess stain, be sure to:
- work in sections (about 10 feet by 10 feet)
- Allow enough time for the floor to soak up the stain, before wiping it off (usually 8-10 minutes is good)
- use a clean rag
“If you’re looking for a fast and affordable way to refinish your hardwood floors, gel staining is the way to go.” – This Old House
Maintaining and caring for your floors
Three important things to consider before you take your first step on your new floors are:
- Cure time
- How to clean your newly finished floors
- Preventing scratches and damage
Cure time
Now that your floors are finished and you have that beautiful shine, you’ll be tempted to never let anyone walk on them ever again. :) But obviously, that’s not an option. So, instead, you’ll want to wait the full cure time before you allow any foot traffic on them. After 12 hours, I’m usually able to walk on them with clean socks.
After 48 hours, if there’s no tackiness whatsoever, I’m ready to add my furniture back on. However, if I’m just not confident, it’s completely cured, I’ll wait 72 hours before adding back the furniture. Especially chairs that will be sliding across the floor.
Sometimes, you have to get creative on how to get from one room to another, while the floors are drying. :)

Are you ready to take on this home improvement project? It’s amazing what beautiful hardwood floors will do for a space. It is truly a low-cost way without a lot of hard work to completely revamp and change the surface of your floor. Your guests will be asking if you just got new flooring.
How to clean your newly finished floors
Cleaning your newly finished floors, is as easy as sweeping with a vacuum or broom. When mopping, be sure to avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Stick with products that are specific to hardwood surfaces.
Preventing scratches and damage for DIY hardwood floor refinishing without sanding
The best thing you can do to avoid scratching your new floor, is to add felt pads under furniture legs. Especially chairs that will be moved often.
Another idea, is to add a rug in high-traffic areas. For example: entryways and walkways that are used often.
However, it is amazing how well gel stain holds up. Here’s a look at my bathroom I completed over 5 years ago. Good as new…

FAQ’s Refinish Hardwood Floors Without Sanding
Can I apply gel stain to floors that have previously been stained?
Yes! That’s the beauty of gel stain. It can go over any stain, even if it has a top coat. Other than cleaning the surface, there’s really nothing else you need to do. Just apply the gel stain and add the polyurethane finish. It is truly the easiest way to refinish old hardwood floors! And the best part–you guessed it! No sanding!!
What surfaces can I use gel stain on?
Another beauty of gel stain and why I love this product. It can go on virtually any hard surface. Wood, metal, laminate, and even painted surfaces.
Can I use gel stain to change the color of my hardwood floors?
Yes! Maybe your current floors are in good condition but you’re just looking for a change in the look of them. Are you wanting your hardwood floors to be darker? Use a dark shade of gel stain. Wanting lighter hardwood floors than what you currently have? Go with a lighter shade of gel stain.
How costly is it to gel stain my floors?
Much cheaper than the alternatives. Gel stain will cost you between 50 cents to two dollars per square foot. Compare that to all new flooring and I think the answer is pretty clear. Haha! A much less costly route, for sure!
Designer Tip: When It Might Be Time to Bring in Help
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What is the best product to use to remove old paint stains before I use the stain?
Hi Rhonda,
My go to paint remover is Klean Strip Premium Stripper. Be sure to use it in an inconspicuous area first to ensure no damage occurs to your floors. Let me know if you have any other questions. Best of luck with the project!
~Nicole
Hello, when doing the extra costs how’d you avoid making any marks in the previous coat with your shoes etc? Or not an issue?
Hi Kiel,
Great question! I always map out my exit strategy. I start at the farthest corner and work myself backwards til I get to the end. So I don’t end up walking on it while it’s still wet. A picture that I failed to take in this project was a bucket in one room with another bucket in another room and a board across it. So that I could get from the den to the rest of the house. I’ll have to go back and see if I happened to take one. But I don’t think I did. Blog fail on my part. Haha! Best of luck on your project! Let me know if you have any other questions!
~Nicole
I am reding the floors in a house that use to be a small country church. The floors are wood with a red cherry finish whic are really in bad shape. want a medium color. any suggestions??
Hi Ms. Kay,
Thank you for your question. Without seeing your wall or trim color, it’s hard to say. But a good medium color that I like to use is Special Walnut. If you’re wanting a little darker, you could go with Dark Walnut.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Have a great day!
Nicole
Yes can you say exactly how to use the mineral spirits to clean the hardwood floor? Thank you
Hi Susan,
You’ll want to use this product sparingly. Only on tough to clean spots and be sure to spot check in an inconspicuous area first. Follow the instructions given on the product you decide to use. In most cases, I’m able to get the floors clean using just soap and water.
Let me know if you have any other questions. :)
~Nicole
I will be trying this what a great idea and DIY I LOVE IT , I gave old floors that need to be revive TY so much for your detail input
Hi!
No problem! I’m glad you found the post helpful!
~Nicole
Do you have any input how to cover up walls that have been cover with spiky plaster
Hi!
My best advice for this would be:
-Clean the wall and scrape off any loose spikes (wear gloves—those things can hurt!).
-Apply a bonding primer if the plaster is glossy or painted.
-Use a wide drywall knife or trowel to apply joint compound in thin layers.
-Sand between coats once dry. You’ll probably need 2–3 coats.
-Prime and paint once it’s smooth.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you,
Nicole
I did the flooring in a bedroom following your instructions. Unfortunately, you can see exactly each section as I moved across the floor as it’s a lot darker. I did the whole room in 2 hours, not stopping so I’m not sure why this happened or how to correct it. Right now it looks like dark stripes going from one wall to the other wall across the room. Any ideas how to fix this? I’m really happy with the color otherwise.
Hi Carol,
I’m glad you’re happy with the color, but I know those dark stripes can be frustrating! That usually happens when the edges of each section start drying before the next pass, so the overlap ends up darker. Even moving quickly, it can happen if the product goes on a little heavier in some spots.
The easiest fix is to lightly buff the floor with a fine-grit screen (a mesh sanding pad, usually 100–150 grit, that attaches to a pole sander) to smooth and blend the edges. Then apply one thin, even coat over the whole room…working in the same direction as the boards and keeping a “wet edge” as you go.
Let me know if you have any other questions,
Nicole
Thank you! I will try that. I was working as fast as I could so I will have my husband help me to try to go faster! What size foam roller did you use? I could only find small ones and wonder if that also contributed to the problem.
I used smaller (4inch) foam rollers. But my room wasn’t very big, so that could be part of the issue. I would try a 9″ foam roller and see if that works better.
I hope this helps.
Would love to know how it turns out when you’re finished.
~Nicole
Hi! I’ve got cherry hardwood floors. I believe they have a Polyurethane or Varathane top coat. Can I still use a gel stain to revive the floors without sanding? And if the colour is currently a deep red colour and I want to go more of a brown colour, is that possible?
Hi! Great question.
If your floors have a polyurethane or Varathane top coat (which most hardwood floors do), gel stain won’t stick well unless you prep the surface first. The finish seals the wood, so the stain has nothing to grab onto.
The good news is you usually don’t have to sand to bare wood. A good cleaning and light scuff sanding is typically enough to help the gel stain adhere.
As for changing the color from red to brown, yes, that’s possible, but cherry floors naturally have red undertones, so they may still show slightly. Choosing a darker brown or walnut tone usually helps neutralize the red.
I’d recommend testing a small hidden area first to see how the color reacts on your floors.
Hope this helps!
~Nicole
Have you seen this done to old parquet 80’s flooring?
Hi! I haven’t personally seen it done on old parquet 80’s flooring. But with light sanding and then applying the gel stain and the top coat, I believe it will work the same. I would test it first in an inconspicuous spot. Just keep in mind, a light sanding is all you need. Just to kind of give it a rough surface. I would run a 120 grit sanding pad across the surface one time. Clean off all the dust and then apply your gel stain, followed by General Finishes Top Coat.
Hope this helps! Would love to see it when it’s done!
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,
Nicole
Hi Betty-Did you ever attempt this technique, and if so what were the results? I also have a house with old parquet floors that I would love to try this on vs replacing if possible.
I love that you are giving us all insights to the joys of Gel stain! I recently bought a 1960 MCM home that had to be totally repainted and stained. They had painted the rough cedar beams white. It was awful. My painter thought we would need to wrap each beam. No way could I afford that. I told him that we were going to Gel stain over the painted beams. It looks fabulous!
Hi Terry,
Wow! What a project! I’m sure it turned out absolutely beautiful! Gel stain to the rescue :) It’s so good!
~Nicole
What if there are high traffic areas of the floor that are worn bare? Can I still use the gel stain or will I need to sand the areas that still have pre-existing stain?
Good question. In a case where your floor has some high-traffic wear and the finish is thin or gone in spots, gel stain alone probably won’t give a smooth, even finish. You’ll need to lightly sand the worn areas to even out the surface before applying gel stain. If those worn zones are heavy or widespread, a full sand + stain + poly refinish will likely give you a better, longer-lasting result.
Hi! I have read your post and am excited to try the products and techniques you have used.
I have pine floors (old and ‘orangey’). They have been sealed with polyurethane. Will your technique work over existing polyurethane?
Also. My walls and ceiling (kitchen and dining area) have been stripped of wallpaper (walls) and popcorn ceiling removed. So existing wall color is not an issue to try and select a stain for the pine floors. Suggestions for colors to consider that will work on pine would be great.
Also will gel stain work on top of a polyurethaned pine floors?
I sure hope so!
Thank you so much for your information! ❤️
Hi Renee…Thanks for your message! Yes, gel stain can absolutely be used over polyurethane, but you’ll need to lightly sand the floors first to help it adhere.
For pine floors, I’d recommend trying a darker gel stain like walnut or espresso, as these can help tone down the orangey undertones of the wood. If you prefer something a bit lighter but still rich, a natural or golden oak gel stain might work well to enhance the warm tones of pine without making it too yellow.
I hope that helps, and good luck with your project!
~Nicole